In this section we try to provide a
definition of some of the more common terms which are used in describing
vintage Chanel Jewelry. If there is something we have missed out, please contact
us and we will gladly add it!
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| Aurora Borealis Rhinestone |
This is a rhinestone that has been given an irridescent
finish due to a metallic deposit in the stone. It is highly reflective, covering the
colors of the rainbow, named after the amazing Northern Hemisphere light display. It
was invented in 1955 by Swarovski.
Bail
This is a finding that is used to attach a pendant to a necklace.
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Baroque pearl |
| An irregularly shaped pearl, sometimes also
referred to as a potato pearl, Chanel’s pearls are usually made from
glass. |
Bezel setting |
 A setting for a crystal or cabochon stone
in which a thin metal strip is folded over and around the edge of the
stone to hold it in place. On Chanel jewelry the bezel setting can be
‘crimped’ to great effect as is shown in the illustration. |
Bracelet |
Types of bracelets produced by Chanel
include:
- Bangle – a rigid bracelet, no clasp, which slips on over the
hand
- Charm – chain bracelet with one or more ornaments (charms)
hanging off it. A very popular Chanel bracelet
- Cuff – a rigid oval or circular bracelet either jointed and with
a clasp, or with a small opening through which the wrist is inserted
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Cabochon |
 Describes an unfaceted stone or poured
glass with a smooth surface and a flat base, this was a very popular and
much-utilized stone, and the use of cabochon stones of several different
colors in an individual piece is a hallmark of Chanel design. |
Clasp |
| Means by which a piece of jewelry is held
in place. Types of clasp most commonly used by Chanel include: |
- Spring clasp – a ring with a small prong that allows the ring to
be opened and attached to the opposite end of the bracelet or
necklace – a spring ensures the ring closes when the prong is
released
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- Lobster claw – a clasp which resembles a lobster’s claw and
which can be opened to attach to the other end of the chain.
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- Push-slot clasp – frequently used by Chanel on heavier necklace,
it comprises a narrow v-shaped plate that slots into a ‘box’ and
clicks into place. The box is often decorated with the Chanel double
C logo.
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- Trombone clasp - usually used on a brooch or pin, it is a metal
'stopper' which is pulled out along the back of the pin to release the prong and
is pushed back in over the end of the prong to hold it in place.
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- Turn clasp – typically used on brooches, the prong is inserted
into the clasp and a turning closure ensures the prong cannot come
loose
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Claw Setting |
| Setting for stone which is held in place by a
number of metal prongs (claws) usually so that the back of the stone can be
open to allow more light to pass through the stone. |
Emerald Cut
Used to describe a cut of stone or crystal that is rectangular in shape with step faceting and truncated corners.
Faceted |
| Refers to a stone or crystal the surface of
which has been cut in a regular pattern into a number of ‘faces’ or
facets designed to enhance its reflectiveness and sparkle (opposite of
cabochon) |
Faux |
| Literally means ‘false’ and most commonly
used when referring to the glass-based imitation pearls beloved by Coco
Chanel – a faux pearl necklace was the first piece of costume jewelry
she produced. |
Givre Stones |
 Stones made from transparent glass fused
around a translucent core to give the stone a frosted appearance. The
amazing effect can be seen in the beautiful white givre crystals in the
illustration.
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Graduated |
| Usually used of pearl necklaces in which
the larger pearls are at the front, with the pearls gradually
diminishing in size towards the back of the necklace. |
Hammered |
| A technique for decorating the surface of
metal using a hammer or a tool giving a similar effect. |
Lariat |
A long necklace with open ends (no clasp)
that is kept in place by knotting or looping the ends
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Maltese Cross |
| A cross which has four arms of equal
length, but where the width of each arm widens the further it gets from
the center. |
Open-Backed | |
| Used of a setting for a stone where the stone is
set in a metal frame with an open back allowing more light to pass through the
stone. Often used with a claw setting. |
Poured Glass |
 This is a technique by which glass is
heated and then poured into moulds to shape it. The resultant glass is
translucent and often contains small bubbles. It is then set into a
metal setting, often a beautiful pendant or brooch. The illustration
shows a poured glass brooch from Season 23. |
Repousse |
| Method of decorating sheet metal in which
designs are hammered on to the back of the metal using special tools.
The resulting design is thus 'pushed through' to the front of the metal
creating a raised pattern. An ancient technique for decorating metal
surfaces. |
Rhinestones |
| Cut glass stones, usually small and
circular, and often backed with foil to increase their reflectiveness
and hence sparkle – when a rhinestone darkens it is usually due to
damage to the foil backing |
Rondelle |
 This usually comprises two circular discs,
often decorated with rhinestones on their outer edges, which Chanel uses
as decorative spacers in its more elaborate necklaces, as can be seen in
the illustration.
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Sautoir |
Long necklace of pearls, crystals, pearls
and/or chains. Originally the term referred to an open-ended necklace
but the term is now commonly used to refer to any longer
crystal/pearl/bead necklace.
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Signed |
| This means that the piece of jewelry has
the maker’s recognized mark or ‘signature’ on it. Earlier Chanel pieces
(pre-1970’s) are often not signed and require expertise to authenticate
them. Those that were signed usually contained the word ‘Chanel’ in
block capitals. The Chanel name was not trademarked until later in the 1970's and was not used consistently until 1980. For these later pieces the signature is usually a round or
oval plate containing the words ‘CHANEL’ in capitals followed by the TM sign and ‘MADE IN
FRANCE’ underneath. In the center is the double C logo. |
 From 1993
the plate will contain the date in the form of two digits (e.g. 93 for
1993) plus whether it is the spring collection (‘P’ for printemps) or
autumn (‘A’). This dating system runs from 1993 to the present. For pieces from 1990-1992 the oval plate is as above but with no date.
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 Sometimes
the date will be given as a four digit number e.g. 1981.This dating system ran from 1980 - 1985.
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 Sometimes
instead of a date it will give the season number eg 23 (in the form
2CC3) which indicates, for example, that it is from the early/mid 1980’s. The numbers used are 23 - 29, covering early to late 1980's.
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Step Cut
This term is generally used for stones which are rectangular and whose facets are parallel to the edge of the stone in a 'stepped' effect, and with a flat top.
Toggle Clasp
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| This fastener is also called, more
graphically, the bar and ring clasp, in which the bar at one end of the
necklace or bracelet is inserted into ring at the other end to hold the
two ends together. |
Torsade |
 This description is taken from a French
word meaning ‘twisting’ and it refers to a necklace comprising several
strands which are twisted together to give the necklace a fuller, more
sumptuous look. This is amply demonstrated in the illustration showing a
pearl and chain torsade necklace. |
